EllenFork

It's 'Naner Bread!

How many people do you know who can manage to get sugar in between their toes while baking?

Well, now you know at least one person (through the internet, anyway). I'm not a neat person on a good day, but when flour and sugar enter the equation the kitchen becomes a veritable blizzard of baking materials. In my hair, definitely on whatever I'm wearing, and this past time, in between my toes. I think life's more fun when it's a bit messy, but you can be sure to find one person who reads this blog that will disagree...that person being my mother. Mom, I must've gotten the messiness from Dad. I don't know, it's just how I roll.

Anyway, messy or not, this banana bread turned out to be quite scrumptious. At least that's what my coworkers said when I deposited the loaf on the office kitchen counter the next morning. And as easy as Banana Bread turned out to be, I had never made it before now. How could I have let all those overripe bananas go to waste all these years, when they could have made a lovely quickbread for my loved ones?! I will never let that happen again, that's for sure.

I used a recipe from the Nashville Seasons Cookbook, published in 1964 by the Nashville Junior League. I received this as a gift a couple Christmases ago, and it is truly a delight. It is filled with retro recipes and menus from a very different era. In fact, many of my relatives have recipes featured in Nashville Seasons I am proud to say. Some of the recipes are truly hilarious, and others just downright scary sounding... mousses, aspics and sweetbreads, oh my! Luckily, many of them are Southern favorites and just good solid home cooking. I plan to feature many recipes in the future.

For now, I bring you:

Banana Bread II
Mrs. James C. Summers

1 stick butter
1 cup sugar
2 ripe bananas
2 eggs
2 cups flour
1 tsp soda (I assume baking soda...)
1/2 cup pecans (I used walnuts)
1 tsp vanilla extract

Cream butter and sugar. Add bananas, mashed, and beat well. Add flour, soda mixed with 1 tbsp of water. (I don't know why one would do this. I didn't do it, just dumped in the baking soda. It turned out fine. I also added 1/2 tsp of salt at this point, just because I physically cannot stop myself from deviating from recipes.)

Mix well, then add nuts and vanilla. turn into well greased pan and cook at 350 degrees. If a large pan, bake for 1 1/2 hours. Or bake 1 hour for two small pans.

(When a knife came out clean, I dumped it on a rack to cool.)

Well y'all, there you have it. Plain and simple. And this recipe really did produce a tasty banana bread, plain and simple! Stay on the lookout for more Nashville Seasons recipes, as I pay homage to my beautiful hometown and the lovely ladies therein.

A Visit From The Green Fairy

I was recently paid a visit by the Green Fairy. Yeah, that's right, the Green Fairy.

Absinthe.

Absinthe, much like fairies, has been considered a mythical entity in the United States for many, many years (since being outlawed in 1912 in fact). Many people associate it with Van Gogh's missing ear, the debauchery of the Moulin Rouge, the artist Toulouse Lautrec and wormwood-induced hallucinations. I associate it with my trip to Paris one Fall, walking the dark streets with friends and sipping straight from a bottle. I did not hallucinate that night, but I may have seen God...things got hazy.

Apparently, absinthe was never really capable of causing hallucinations, which is why it has recently been allowed to pass U.S. borders once again. However, its extremely high alcohol content makes absinth a drink to enjoy with caution. This past Saturday, I found myself and a group of friends doing just that...minus the caution.

The absinthe of choice was Mata Hari, a delightful gift for my review. This absinthe is Austrian, created in the Bohemian style. This means that while it is still bright green, herbal and alcoholic it is has less of the anise taste that many drinkers find less palatable. I personally found that it went down very easily in the traditional ritual (which I will show below), or mixed into a cocktail. Either way, it is very fun to drink!

We had two different adventures with absinthe this particular Saturday. The first is the traditional ritual, which involves dripping cold water over a sugar cube into the absinthe, to dilute and sweeten it.

This is a special absinthe glass, sugar cube and spoon, provided by my lovely friend Latiffa. She especially enjoys Pernod absinthe in this way, or in one of her world-class Sazeracs. I was lucky to have an aficionado on hand to lead me through this interesting ritual.

The Absinthe Ritual

Fill the reservoir of the absinthe glass with absinthe. Place spoon and cube on top of glass. Slowly drip ice water over the cube until it is fully dissolved. DRINK!

Some people dunk the cube into the alcohol, then set it on fire. I see no real benefit to this except for fun with fire, and burning off a bit of the alcohol (which I would not recommend). It is definitely a cool effect, though.

Our next adventure was a cocktail called the Chrysanthemum, which I pulled from an article by Camper English, on epicurious.com.

 

The Chrysanthemum

Ingredients

1 teaspoon absinthe
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) Benedictine liqueur
1/4 cup (2 ounces) dry vermouth
1 cup ice cubes
1 orange peel twist

Add first three ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Carefully stir this for one minute. Strain into martini glass. Squeeze strip of orange peel into the glass and add the peel. Enjoy, in a very fancy way.

PERSONALLY, I thought the vermouth was way too overpowering. In my next tries, I added a bit more absinthe and less vermouth. Mata Hari is ideal for mixing, so the anise didn't overpower the other flavors. Also, I LOVE Benedictine. It's very sweet and very herbal. The combination of all of these liquers is quite unique.

When all was said in done, we had sampled many cocktails. The afternoon faded into night, and the shenanigans continued. When we took the streets like good little hooligans, we had the Green Fairy on our sides, and for that I thank her.

Happy Friday everybody!

A Fresh Haul (and a Happy Salad)

Yesterday I woke up in a world covered with a dusting of snow and the promise of more (lots more!) to come. And yet, despite the chill and the barren view of leafless trees and grey skies from the window, I decided it was a farmer's market kind of morning. Well, I think every morning is a farmer's market morning but only on Sunday am I allowed the privilege of going.

So I bundled up and set off towards Dupont Circle. There was a cheerful hustle and bustle as market-goers rifled through bins of beets, turnips, apples and winter greens. The mushroom lady was there in her a cave of a tent filled with mysterious fungi. The flower sellers were there with big buckets of lilies with unopened buds, and Ranunculus, which look like wild, romantic peonies. The smell of mulled cider wafted through the crowd. The folks from Eco-Friendly were there, smiling in the cold and gently explaining the benefits of humanely raised, organic meats to customers. I love Eco-Friendly Foods for their truly friendly attitudes and their incredibly tasty meats. Every visit yields some great meat, good cooking suggestions and a feeling of satisfaction.

I usually do not approach this booth with a recipe in mind, instead I choose based on the cuts available. I've ended up with many varieties of sausage, spare ribs, beef shanks osso-bucco style, pork loin and other treats. Once I've chosen something, I fill in the gaps from the vegetable stands.

On yesterday's trip, I was filling in the gaps around a duck breast procured earlier from The Organic Butcher of Mclean, an adorable little spot in Mclean, Va. In the end I left the market with fresh brown eggs, french breakfast radishes, half a loaf of Spelt, sweet potatoes, erba stella, pork sausages, and half a young chicken, frozen, not to mention the empanada and cider my young man and I consumed while walking around. Not a bad haul, but in the end not the gap fillers I meant to snag.

Sunday dinner ended up being duck breast and salad. Saving the duck breast for later, I'd like to share this easy salad and dressing with you. I borrowed  from this Food + Wine recipe. I changed a few things based on the contents of my pantry, and the fact that I looooove frisée, that bitter, thorny looking cousin of Endive.

Frisée Salad with Garlic-Anchovy Dressing

3-4 big handfuls of Frisée (I made this for two people, but you know how much lettuce you need)
6 French Breakfast Radishes, sliced
2 Ribs celery, chopped
1/2 Seedless cucumber, cut lengthwise then sliced

Toss all veggies together in a bowl.

Dressing:
4-5 Anchovy fillets, minced
1/4 good olive oil
3-4 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice
Freshly ground pepper, to taste

In a saucepan, combine oil, anchovies and garlic over moderate to low heat. Stir occasionally until the garlic is golden brown, making sure not to burn it. Add lemon juice and pepper and pour over the vegetables. Serve immediately.

The nutty, salty flavor of the anchovies mixes in so nicely with the spiciness of the garlic, creating a complex flavor. The lemon adds a little bit of bite. And combined with the crunchiness of the vegetables, it ends up being a very light and flavorful salad. It got rave reviews from my dining companion, who gobbled it all up and asked for more. This might be my new favorite salad...and yours, too!

Scroux You, Mardi Gras Gumbo

So, clearly I missed Mardi Gras and I guess since I didn't get to go I feel bitter, hence the title of this post. Also, it was last week. I just had a crazy week and didn't feel up to writing about Gumbo in the midst of it. Sorry guys! But now, here I am, dutifully recording my gumbo feast. And, a feast it was, as my loyal boyfriend and I consumed it about 9 times cumulatively...I made a lot of it. Oh, and I froze some.

Anyway, the good news is that I NEVER got tired of it. It was so yummy that I just kept on feasting, night after night. There are so many tasty ingredients in gumbo that it's hard to get tired of it...every time you think you've had about enough, you chomp down on a shrimp or a big chunk of andouille and you fall in love all over again. That's how gumbo reels you in.

This is the first gumbo I've ever made. When I lived in New Orleans, I just sampled everything that came across my path and relied on professionals to serve up steaming plates of goodness. Here in DC, I am not so lucky as to be constantly surrounded by folks who grew up cooking and eating gumbo. I had to take matters into my own hands. My main concern with this was only the most important component of gumbo: the roux.

Roux is a mixture of equal parts flour and oil (or butter or fat) cooked to a dark, reddish brown color. It requires a good heavy bottomed pan (which I do not have for some inane reason) and patience (which I have for the most part). It also takes some cojones. Allowing the roux cook to perfection means constantly stirring, while you are sure it's being hideously disfigured and burned. This is quite nerve wracking. I folded before my gumbo had reached a really nutty dark color, a decision supported by my internet researching. Apparently a "New Orleans" style roux is lighter, and peanut butter colored. A true Cajun roux is really dark, like milk chocolate.

Let's just say mine was a New Orleans-style roux, but it did get legitimately peanut butter colored. It just changed colors so fast that I got alarmed and threw the vegetables in, which stops it from cooking. The result was very delicious so I guess I didn't go too far wrong...

Shrimp, Chicken and Sausage Gumbo

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup oil
• 1/2 cup flour
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 green bell pepper, chopped
• 2-3 ribs celery, chopped
• 4  cloves garlic, minced
• 2 quarts chicken stock
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 teaspoons creole seasoning such as Tony Cachere's, or to taste
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
• 1 tablespoon hot paprika
• 1 teaspoon cumin
• A few dashes of cayenne pepper
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 rotisserie chicken, meat cut into chunks
• 1 pounds andouille, cut into 1/2" slices
• 1 bag of frozen, sliced okra
• 1 bunch green onions, green parts sliced
• 1 lb shrimp, I used frozen, raw, peeled and deveined b/c that is the easiest option

First heat oil in a heavy bottomed pan over moderate heat. Gradually add flour, stirring constantly. Pay close attention as the mixture heats up, making sure to prevent lumps from forming. This can go from bad to worse in a matter of minutes if left unattended- make sure to stir constantly (redundant, I know).

Ok, when the roux is the desired color, add the vegetables. The roux will quit cooking so violently. Cook the veggies for about 5 minutes, then add stock, chicken, sausage, and the rest of the seasonings and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and allow to actively simmer for about an hour (at the very minimum). Make sure that you are tasting and adjusting seasonings as it simmers. If you like a pinch more thyme, or an extra bay leaf, or are a fiend for spice, now is a good time to change that.

About 10 minutes before serving, add the frozen shrimp. You don't want them to get tough. When they are cooked through and pink, they're ready to go.

Serve over rice, with lots of Abita beer, french bread, crazy friends and Louisiana Kitchen Hot Sauce. That stuff is awesome.

Les Bon Temps Roulesz, bitches!

Where Y'at Eggs Benedict?!

This morning I awoke with several pangs. One was of hunger, the other was a longing for New Orleans. It's carnival season and I crave everything that entails. I spent four years at Loyola New Orleans, soaking up one of the richest cultures in America like a boozy sponge. So much tradition...and so much partying and feasting! A match made in heaven. New Orleans has some of the best, most soulful food in the country.

Right now I should be standing on the street corner by Fat Harrys with a keg and 100 of my closest friends, a poboy in one hand and some monstrous daiquiri in the other. So, while my liver is probably glad I'm not there this year, my heart is yearning for New Orleans.

Back to the first pang: hunger. I was sure that I did not have any breakfast ingredients, but when  I peered into the deep dark corners of my kitchen I found: some frozen sausages from the farmers market, corn meal, eggs, milk and a can of diced tomatoes.  What resulted was a slightly cajun, delicious version of eggs benedict! I admit that calling this cajun is a stretch, but it certainly had plenty Tony Cachere's Cajun Seasonings, and that counts for something.

Here is my made up recipe, blogging now so I don't forget what is in it. Apologies for lack of pictures, my camera is out of commission today. You'll have to do with this wretched iPhone picture. Hopefully you get the idea..

Saucy, Cajun Eggs Benedict
This recipe serves as many as you like...each serving is comprised of 1 egg, 1 sausage, 1 corncake and as much sauce as you like. Estimate from there. Also, amazingly this only took about 30 min to make, not bad!

Corn Cakes (see recipe below)
Sausages (Mine were Extra Black Pepper Pork Sausages from Emerald Farms at my local farmer's market. These are my favorite sausages ever.)
Fresh eggs
Tomato Sauce (recipe below)

First, start the corn cakes and tomato sauce. Begin heating a pot of water to poach the eggs.

Corn Cakes (makes about 6-8 cakes)

1 egg, lightly beaten
3/4 c milk
1 1/3 c corn meal (I used Martha White self-rising)
1/2 tsp sugar
1 tblsp vegetable oil

Heat lightly oiled skillet or griddle. Mix all ingredients together. The batter should be a big thicker than pancake batter, but not too thick. Pour about 1/4 cup onto the skillet for each cake. Allow edges to set and better to thicken before flipping.

Tomato Sauce (I recommend doubling this if serving more than 2 people)

1 can diced tomatoes, no salt added
Tony Cachere's Cajun Seasoning to taste
1 pinch dried thyme

Dump can of 'maters into a small saucepan. Add Tony's to taste, and a pinch of thyme. I added a bit extra water because I overdid it with the Tony's...don't forget how much salt is in there! Also, extra water helps because you will want to reduce this. I brought the tomatoes to a boil and let the flavors infuse for a while, allowing the water to reduce somewhat.

Turn off heat and when it's not boiling, scoop out the tomatoes and about half the juice and puree in a small processor. Return to saucepan and further reduce puree until it thickens.

Second, while the sauce is simmering and you are in between batches of corn cakes, begin sausages and eggs.

I simply butterflied the sausages and cooked them in a skillet. Not rocket science. As for the eggs, I added some white vinegar to the pot of simmering water to help them coagulate, and stay together while cooking. I cracked the eggs individually into a glass then gently poured it into the simmer water for about 5 minutes (I actually didn't time them...just drained them with a slotted spoon when they looked right. Right for me is a jiggly yolk, so it will be a bit runny).

Now assemble your "eggs benedict". Layer corn cake, add sausage, poached egg and a healthy slop of sauce. Add a grind or two of black pepper. Eat this IMMEDIATELY!

Also, if you have an ounce of wits about you, you would have had your kitchen minion (or boyfriend) preparing IOBMs (Inside Out Bloody Mary's).

A tasty breakfast out of pantry ingredients...couldn't have asked for more! Except maybe a plane ticket to mardi gras...

A Smashing Bev

Oh, seasonal foods. Root veggies, greens, legumes...you all have a place in my heart. But guess what? I'm ready for spring. No, scratch that, I'm ready for summer. And as much as I would LIKE to eat seasonally at all times, Whore Foods (or Whole Foods, whatever you prefer) is a tempting mistress offering up glistening shelves of berries, tomatoes and produce that does not grow within 500 miles of DC, much less in the winter. Your huge display of mangos and avocados made me quiver with longing for warmer times.

So on an unseasonably balmy Saturday in February, I decided to make myself a drink that has NO BUSINESS (NO BUSINESS!) being concocted and consumed this time of year. I made...a Raspberry Thyme Smash. And it was delicious. It was from a July 2008 Bon Apetít. Because I care about each and every one of you, I am going to share this recipe.

This photo was taken by my talented boyfriend, Sean Wallace.

Raspberry Thyme Smash from Bon Apetít

• 2 fresh thyme sprigs, divided
• 7 fresh raspberries, divided
• ice cubes
• 1/4 cup Hendrick's Gin
• 2 tablespoons Simple Syrup (see below)
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Ok, first thing's first. I recommend making the Simply Syrup first so that it will be nice and cool to make your smash. Simple Syrup is hilariously easy- just boil equal parts water and sugar until the sugar is completely dissolved. Pour into an airtight container and cool. It will last about a week. For this recipe, I used  1/2 c sugar and water, because I always end up with WAY too much Simp. Syr.

Now that's done, throw the leaves of a sprig of thyme, and about 6 berries into a cocktail shaker and muddle it wih a wooden muddler. Or any mashing device you may have. Now add ice, gin, lime juice and simple syrup. Shake this in the shaker until it's ICEY COLD. Don't wimp out on the shakin', make sure its really shook up good. Now strain over ice and garnish with a berry skewered on a thyme sprig.

 

I will warn you: there is a delicate balance of flavors in this drink. You want to taste the thyme, offset the tartness of winter raspberries with simple syrup, and make sure the acid of the lime is helping not hurting the drink. Also, while totally worth it, Hendricks is godawfulexpensive. You won't care too much after you've had a couple though. Just make sure you switch to the cheaper stuff when the delicate flavor profiles become lost on you... it's just common sense.

Salud!

Flower Food

What's up Sunchoke? Aren't you just such a weird little tuber...or should I call you Jerusalem Artichoke? Really though, you look like Ginger Root. This vegetable needs to rethink it's image, or maybe take a deep inward look.

I came across this little guy and some of his friends at the Dupont Circle Farmer's Market last week. I have had an interest in sunchokes for some time, mostly just hoping to come across one in it's purest form.I had no idea that they looked like little people living underneath sunflowers. Really, they are the roots of a flowering plant that very much resembles sunflowers! I immediately snapped up a carton of them and took them home to conduct diabolical experiments.

Actually, I just ended up pureeing them using a recipe based on some hearsay at the Farmer's Market. Here is their story.

Sunchoke Puree

• 1 lb Sunchokes
• Whole Milk
• Salt
• Black Pepper
• Cayenne Pepper

First, wash and peel these little buggers. I used a vegetable peeler, and it was not very easy. They kept slipping through my fingers and hiding behind things on my counter. Once peeled, chop them into smallish chunks and put them in a pan with whole milk. Make sure the milk is covering the 'chokes by at least 1 inch.

Bring to a boil, then allow to simmer until they are soft throughout. Drain the milk, and puree in a food processor. Add salt and pepper to taste. I also added a teeny bit of delicious European butter...because that's how I roll. 

My honest opinion? They were a bit sweet for my taste...the cayenne helped with that a little, but they were very much like weird, mildly sweet tasting potatoes. I used mine as some bedding for Osso Bucco, which you will see very soon, and it definitely meshed well with a hearty dish like that. I would eat them again, but try a new method...perhaps mixing them in with real potatoes. Either way, Sunchokes are a great winter vegetable, easy to find at your local farmer's market and extremely fun to photograph.

Enjoy!

Busy Bee

Hi Friends!

Just wanted to say sorry I've been busy this week and have not updated. However, you should keep checking back...I have several things to tell you about!

These things may or may not include....

SUNCHOKES!!!

WEIRD MUSHROOMS!!!

A DELICIOUS, MEATY WINTER DISH!!!

AND best of all...

A NEW FANCY COCKTAIL!!

So, keep a look out!

E.Fork

A Real Wake Up Call

Ah brunch, the ritual of the city dweller. Brunches across America have captured my love and attention, from greasy spoons to Brooklyn bistros to my own home kitchen. And no matter how innovative a brunch, it never strays too far from what makes brunch one of the best meals of the day: eggs, cheese, bacon, booze... If I could rhapsodize on brunch for an entire post, I would (and I may in the future), but there is a very important recipe I want to share with you, my gentle booze-loving readers. It came to light a few weekends ago, at one of my favorite DC restaurants, the Blue Duck Tavern.

I could go on, and on about why this place is wonderful but instead, just read my Yelp review. This time, I enjoyed a delicious version of scrambled eggs with salmon and creme fraiche, spooned onto a delicious shredded potato cake, but the real highlight of the meal was the Inside Out Bloody Mary.

My interest was piqued by such a title. Inside Out!? I didn't even have a guess as to what that meant. As it turns out, it is basically a spicy martini poured over bloody mary CUBES! The cubes melt into the drink as you drink the liquid, thereby preventing watered down drinks. What a fantastic idea, I thought...so I copied it. And here it is. Luckily our waiter recited the ingredients twice, because we could not understand his incredibly thick accent.

Inside Out Bloody Mary

A few bloody Mary cubes (however many fit into your glass, 2-3)
3 oz good quality vodka (Grey Goose, Stoli, etc)
Splash of lemon
Splash of lime
Dash of hot sauce (I used Louisiana Kitchen)
Spicy Dill Bean (you can buy them in a jar, but my Mom's taste better)

So, let me just get this off my chest...I used Mr. and Mrs. T's Bold and Spicy Bloody Mary Mix. I have had it before, and really, it's very good. If you don't want to use a mix, mix up some tomato juice, prepared horseradish, black pepper, celery salt, worcestershire sauce, etc. Whatever floats your boat.

I procured some perfectly square ice cube trays, which I think is extremely important in the presentation of this cocktail. Looking cool is half the fun on this one, guys. I bought mine at this awesome store in DC called Home Rule. Don't go in there unless you like being broke.

Ok, I need to focus here. So freeze the cubes, it will take several hours from them to become really frozen. Once they're done, run a lime slice around the rim of a cocktail glass (martini or otherwise) and rim with Tony Cachere's Cajun Seasoning (the best!). Throw in the cubes.

Add vodka, splash lime, splash lemon and dash of hot sauce into a shaker filled with ice cubes (made of water). Shake what yo' mama gave you until the shaker has a fine layer of ice coating it and strain over the Mary cubes.

Add pickled bean for a delicious garnish.

May you all enjoy a fancy brunch, no matter where you may consume it.

Splittin' Peas

Hey Guys. What's up. Still cold outside? Awesome, that is SO what I hoped you'd say!!!! Because Soup Season is persisting. It's great for the budget and not so bad on the winter blub layer either, for the most part. So while we wait for the thaw and pretend that that horrrrrible groundhog Phil didn't predict six more weeks of winter, it might be time for more soup.

Split pea soup is one of the most wonderful, economical soups out there. A bag of dried peas, some undesirable pork products (well, mostly) and some root veggies make this dish both hearty and frugal. Oh, and let's not forget delicious. I admit that I was originally disgruntled by the addition of ham hocks, aka pork knuckles. But, when I found a pound of them at my local Harris Teeter for less than five dollars, my suspicions were allayed.

The end result of this soup is surprisingly creamy, smooth and flavorful, given the sparse ingredients. I recommend that you add it to your soup regimen as the winter continues to churn along. Punxatawney Phil isn't budging an inch, that jerk.

Split Pea and Ham Soup

1 bag split peas
3 cups chicken stock
2 cups mirepoix (finely diced onions, carrots and celery, of equal proportions)
1 russet potato, cubed
2 bay leaves
1 tsp dried thyme
butter
olive oil
salt
pepper
2 large ham hocks

Melt butter and oil in large, heavy bottomed pot. Add mirepoix and cook til translucent. Add thyme and bay leave, then chicken stock, split peas, ham hock and potato. Let simmer, covered, on low for as long as you like, at least 30 min, and until it becomes creamy. As crazy as it sounds, without dairy, it takes on a very creamy consistency. Wait for it... 

DONE! SURPRISE!!!

Anyway, at least 30 minutes is recommended for maximum flavors.  It will be even better tomorrow. Also, I discarded the hocks after stewing. They just didn't appeal.

Well, that was easy. Enjoy some Split Pea and Ham Soup often during this dark, cold winter.